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Straw Qualities Baku (China) > Very fine natural straw fiber from rice stalks; expensive handwoven straw for use in millinery and dress hats. Bangora (org. Japan, also China) > Machine-made hat woven from toyo paper yarn initating bakou. Bankok (Philippines) > Natural fibre straw usually handwoven into expensive, light weight dress and Western hats. Brisa ( Ecuador) > Panama hat in 1x1 weave from toquilla straw. Bu (China) > Method of designating the fineness of yarn fibers used in making straw hats; one bu is approximately equal to one millimeter. The smaller the bu number, the finer the weave and the more expensive the hat. Cappeline> Hat industry term for a generic straw of felt hat body. Chinese Paper Yarn (China) > Twisted, coated paper yarn used in inexpensive straw hats, often made from recycled materials. Also Chinese twisted paper. Cuenca (Ecuador) > Panama hat in 2x2 weave from toquilla straw. Formosan (Taiwan) > Manmade yarn hats woven in Taiwan, aka Formosa Formosan Marcus paper yarn (Japan) > Manmade yarn produced in Japan and woven into hat bodies in Formosa (Taiwan). Designed to imitate Bankok straw, Marcus yarn is noted for its round fiber and uniform colour. Glaze (Japan, China) > Lustrous finish put on yarn used in straw hats that also adds body and strength to the fiber. Hemp (Philippines) > Straw fiber from the hemp plant producing a coarse, rugged hat body. Hemp is usually handwoven in Taiwan and expensive. Hood > Hat industry term for an unblocked, cone-shaped hat body. Jute (China) > Natural fiber from the hemp plant but finer than hemp fiber. Lacquer >Transparent varnish applied to a blocked straw hat body to strengthen the body. Each hatmaker has a proprietary lacquer formula Montecristi Panama (Ecuador) > Very fine high grade and expensive straw hat handwoven from toquilla on the island of Montecristi. 1X1 > Straw or yarn weaving pattern in hats of one stand on one strand producing a smooth , even weave. Paribuntal (China) > Bakou straw in a wider, looser weave often used in millinery and dress hats. Polyhemp (Japan) > Polyester yarn designed to imitate hemp straw. Panama hat (Ecuador) > Hand-woven hat made from toquilla straw; very expensive, but the standard for finely-woven straw dress and Western hats. Raffia (Madagascar) > Natural fiber of a Madagascar palm used in coarsely-woven hats. Straw is prized for pliability, ruggedness. Rice Fiber (China, Southeast Asia) > Natural straw fiber from the stalks of rice plants. Shantung (China) > Commercial American term for glazed manmade paper yarn made in Japan and handwoven in China. Any hat made from Shantung yarn. 2X2 > Straw or yarn weaving patterns in hats in which two strands are placed on two strands resulting in a herringbone pattern. Seagrass (China, Southeast Asia) > Natural straw fiber from ocean plants used in producing a coarse weave in plants. Sisal (China, Southeast Asia) > Coarse rich fiber used in straw hats. Toquilla ( Equador, Andes Mountains) > Palm plant source of natural straw fibers used in Panama hats. Toyo (Japan) > Twisted manmade paper yarn similar to Formosan Marcus paper yarn but with variegated colouring. Used glazed or unglazed in less expensive Western straw hats. Twisted Paper Jute (China) > Manmade fiber resembling jute fiber. Weave > Twisting and interlacing of yarns in manufacturing straw hat bodies either by machine or by hand. Typical weaves in Western straw hats are 1X1 and 2X2. Fancy weaves produce distinct patterns and open or vented weaving creates open spaces in the final hat body. Yarn > Filaments or strands spun from natural or manmade materials used in weaving straw hats. In Western hats, yarn usually refers to manmade materials.
Fur Felt Qualities In the Biltmore dress hat line we offer seven different Qualities of Fur Felt that are determined through the following factors. Firstly the quality of the fur felt which could be a combination of beaver, domestic and/or wild hare fur. Secondly is the type of finishing process of the fur felt body to give it a certain appearance such as smooth, velour or silkiness. Biltmore's finishing is all done by hand. Thirdly is the type of trimming that goes on the hat, which would be the lining, sweatband, exterior band, brim treatment etc. Rosellini > Consists of the finest quality fur felt and has a rich ultra classic finish. The Rosellini hat contains a very high percentage of fine fur in the body. The hand finish is superb. There is onion skin attached to the genuine leather sweatband which makes this "Simply the Best" dress hat made today. Grand Beaver > Is 100% fur felt with a luxurious long textured hair finish. The body has a high quantity of fur felt. It has a genuine leather sweatband and hand made fur felt outer band. With these high quality accessories, this hat is considered to be one of the best in the business. Golden Pheasant > Body is a supple genuine fur felt, which has a velour finish. After the finish has been completed the body is very delicate and must be handled with care. The crown and brim are flexible and can be adjusted quite easily by a "hatter". The hat has a hand made outer felt band from the same felt as the hat body, genuine leather sweatband and finished off with a satin lining. Eleganza > Is a genuine fur felt body with a silk like finish. Extensive hand finishing of the hat body and a ribbed grosgrain ribbon band from 1/2" inch to 2" with a genuine leather sweatband and satin lining make this a very elegant hat. Canadian Suede > Is a genuine fur felt with a suede finish. the finish has a plush suede texture that feels like soft velvet. A hat with a suede finish has a soft flexible body. Royal Biltmore > Consists
of a heavier quality fur felt, which also has a smooth finish.
The body contains different fur making it more rigid. The
accessories are mid-quality which allows the mid-price Senator > consists of a
fine quality fur felt, which has a smooth
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